Jump to content


ebuild is sad to announce its closure - it has become too time and resource intensive to develop, manage and maintain.

However, ebuild will remain on-line in archive mode (ie no posting facilties) for several weeks so that users can use it as an information resource.

Replacing Outdoor Security Light with PIR sensor


  • Please log in to reply
3 replies to this topic

#1 unknownwarrior

unknownwarrior

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 31 October 2008 - 01:56 PM

Many years ago my dad put an outdoor security light outside wired up to a switch inside the kitchen. After years of trouble free use it began to cut the trip switch out in the fuse box.
I disconnected the light a long time ago now.
Anyway to get to my point, I have bought a new security light with PIR sensor, tried wiring it into the same switch (there are two switches, one for the kitchen light, the other for security light) I wired the inside of the light according to instructions inside the box, but when connecting it into the switch got nothing at all. Tried various alternative wiring configurations but to no avail.
Sooo I then wired it upto a plug & it worked first time no probs. As I don't want to have the light working from a plug, is anyone able to give me any advise on the matter please.

PS the wiring in the light switch is as follows, RED in the top left hand side of switch
BLUE in the hole next to it
YELLOW in the hole at the bottom of the switch

Theose wires are the ones that run to the internal light, i'm presuming the yellow wire is the loop wire that carries power to the next switch.

The cables in the security light is LIVE NEUTRAL & EARTH.

(Message edited by unknownwarrior on October 31, 2008)

(Message edited by unknownwarrior on October 31, 2008)

#2 banallsheds

banallsheds

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 982 posts

Posted 31 October 2008 - 03:30 PM

What connections does the new light need? Just L/N/E or does it need permanent and switched live?

What cables run to/from the switch and the outside and kitchen lights? Is one Red/Blue/Yellow cable all you've got?

Do you know how lighting circuits are wired, and whether your house has a loop that runs through the light fittings or through the switches?

And do you have a multimeter?

#3 unknownwarrior

unknownwarrior

    New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 31 October 2008 - 04:55 PM

RED in the top left hand side of switch
BLUE in the hole next to it
YELLOW in the hole at the bottom of the switch

Those wires are the ones that run to the internal light, i'm presuming the yellow wire is the loop wire that carries power to the next switch.

The cables in the security light is LIVE NEUTRAL & EARTH.

#4 banallsheds

banallsheds

    Regular Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 982 posts

Posted 31 October 2008 - 06:39 PM


quote:

RED in the top left hand side of switch
BLUE in the hole next to it
YELLOW in the hole at the bottom of the switch


So which are COM/L1/L2?



quote:

Those wires are the ones that run to the internal light,


They all go to the internal light? What terminals do they connect to when they get there?

And what about the external light - where do the cable(s) for that run to and from?



quote:

i'm presuming the yellow wire is the loop wire that carries power to the next switch.


  1. It is a very bad idea to do electrical work on the basis of presuming what conductors are being used for - you should make sure you know.
  2. If the loop went through the switches then the Neutral would be there too.
  3. If what you presume were true, how could the yellow be the loop conductor if it stopped at the switch terminal? It's not connected to another conductor - nothing is going to get carried to the next switch...
  4. I'm starting to think that you should have put a bit of time into learning how lighting circuits are wired, and how switches work, before starting this.




quote:

The cables in the security light is LIVE NEUTRAL & EARTH.


So perfectly straightforward then. If the old light used to work then it must have had L/N/E present, so why doesn't it now? What conductors are at the outside light position, and where do they come from?