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Where To Run My Rad Water Pipes,


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10 replies to this topic

#1 Busterbenny

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 07:18 AM

Hi guys advice if possible,

Building a timber frame im at block and beam stage, because of location and finances we are planning to install an oil fired central heating system.
My question is regarding supply to the radiators, our floor make up is going to be block and beam, membrane then cellotex then concreete screed, should we plan on running pipes under the screed or through studwork and drop down?

Any advice appreciated



#2 Nickfromwales

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 10:26 AM

I'd have as few services as possible in the slab. Nowt wrong with them being engineered to be in there, just multiple heating runs and the inevitable joints would be better off as accessible as possible.
I'd pipe the whole flow and return circuit in 22 mm and feed each rad with 10mm copper. You can easily get 10mm copper from 1st floor to each rad without any joints. To clarify, you need each rad to connect INDIVIDUALLY to the 22mm , no 15mm anywhere unless it is the last rad on a run. That'll balance the system perfectly and ensure all the rads heat up evenly and quickly.
Thermostatic rad valves on all rads except the downstairs hallway which should have non adjustable 'lock shields' fitted so there is one rad always open. This rad 'zone' is where your room stat should be eg not in any area served by thermostatic rad valves.
Is to to be a combi or system boiler?
Regards, nick.

#3 Busterbenny

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 11:15 AM

Many thanks, probably a combi as i have at present, im building in an adjoining paddock we have no mains gas here and oil seems the easiest option, currently have a worcester combi boiler a few years old that has had a lot go wrong with it so will probably look at an alternative make thos time around..

#4 Nickfromwales

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 11:59 AM

I fit grant. Great boilers and iirc same burners.
Never had a prob with them. Last one I did was an external one. Are you aware that they can go outside?
Regards, Nick.

#5 Busterbenny

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 12:05 PM

Thanks Nick shame you werent in Devon, im going to ring a few heating people tomorrow and get some quotes, ill probably pick your brains a bit more afterwards, i wasnt aware but we have a utility room with space for boiler so not really a problem, should all the pipe be copper no plastic at all? Just getting an idea of exactly what i need to spec when getting quotes.

Thanks

#6 Nickfromwales

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 12:25 PM

*
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I'm biased so copper for me for a 'regular' plumbing system. I have used plastic on a couple of new builds after good and informative argument here, but they were all single continuous lengths from point to point with zero joints. For a parallel heating circuit you'll need 2 tees for each rad so not really a good candidate for plastic impo.
Others here have used it with / without issue but I just don't like the stuff as fittings are bulky and ugly, and you can't bend and set plastic like you can with copper.
I'm all copper and there's no excuse not to use it tbh, plus the fittings are cheaper / tiny compared to push fit / plastic.
Regards, Nick.

#7 Busterbenny

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 12:36 PM

Many thanks Nick,

Anything else i should speak about in my request for quotes, ill ask about grant systems, also mention the 22 mm run makes sense to me, any particular good model of boiler 3 bed detached house with study also double garage to be heated, and any tips on types of rads to be quoted on?

#8 Nickfromwales

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 12:43 PM

I'd probably go for oversized rads and run the heating circuit at a lower temp to take full advantage of the efficient 'condensing' operating range of the boiler. If the rads are too small you'll have to run the heating much hotter and then you'll be out of the stated boiler efficancy range.
Maybe go to MrCentralheating online and order the boiler and rads as a package, they're bloody cheap. :)
I just priced a Vaillant ( gas ) 938 and MCH were £80 more than my merchant BUT WITH 7 RADS + VALVES :o
Christ on a bike
B)

#9 Nickfromwales

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 12:46 PM

Oh, and try to get a heat store Combi as they give excellent dhw flow rates. You can ring grant direct and they'll give you the lowdown. If you can manage with the dhw you had before then go for a regular Combi so you don't pay to keep the tank warm :)
Grant UK 01380 736920
;)

Edited by Nickfromwales, 10 April 2016 - 12:46 PM.


#10 Busterbenny

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 12:56 PM

View PostNickfromwales, on 10 April 2016 - 12:43 PM, said:

I'd probably go for oversized rads and run the heating circuit at a lower temp to take full advantage of the efficient 'condensing' operating range of the boiler. If the rads are too small you'll have to run the heating much hotter and then you'll be out of the stated boiler efficancy range.
Maybe go to MrCentralheating online and order the boiler and rads as a package, they're bloody cheap. :)
I just priced a Vaillant ( gas ) 938 and MCH were £80 more than my merchant BUT WITH 7 RADS + VALVES :o
Christ on a bike
B)

Mr cental heating doesnt do oil shame as their prices do look good :)

#11 Nickfromwales

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 02:08 PM

Bugger
:D