Farmhouse Resoration In Herefordshire
Posted 24 March 2016 - 06:16 PM
The house will be restored using traditional methods of construction, lime plasters and oak framing with oak windows.If the budget stretches that far!!!!.
Look forward to your feedback. Jonathon
Posted 24 March 2016 - 06:50 PM
You'll get plenty of practical help and advice here, run your plans by us all as many hands make light work. Always someone with an idea to make things better or a contact to help you out.
Posted 24 March 2016 - 07:07 PM
I m also about two start a new build in Hereford. Where abouts are you?
Posted 24 March 2016 - 07:09 PM
First investigations by me! have found some rotten sections in the oak frame (to be expected). Many of the windows are beyond repair, water damage from leaking gutters or no gutter at all!, but the roof is good and water tight apart from a leak over a dormer window. Most of the damage is either age related or caused by wallies using modern non breathable materials on an old building. Expect me to be asking lots of questions.
Posted 24 March 2016 - 07:12 PM
Posted 24 March 2016 - 07:15 PM
I n project managing and bits and pieces where I feel my skill set is good enough. I m building at Bartestree but work in Bishops Frome so not far from you. I m building an ultra modern flat roof place so at the opposite end of the spectrum to your farmhouse renovation!
Edited by Trw144, 24 March 2016 - 07:15 PM.
Posted 24 March 2016 - 07:46 PM
Posted 24 March 2016 - 08:02 PM
Posted 24 March 2016 - 08:17 PM
Posted 25 March 2016 - 01:21 PM
Posted 25 March 2016 - 04:51 PM
There's nothing wrong with (in fact there's a lot to be said for) using vapour impermeable materials on the inner layer of the house, but there are big problems caused by using them outside, where vapour can get trapped inside the structure and condense onto structural parts that may be subject to damp-induced rot. The reason that embedded joist ends rot is that they end up cold, and moisture condenses on them and can't escape, leading to ideal conditions for moulds, rot and wood boring insects to thrive.
There are alternative insulation materials available too, that are well-worth looking at. Sheeps wool is expensive, and not without some problems in the long term, when the oils and lanolin evaporate out, plus it has to be contained within an effective insect barrier (unless you use something nasty to treat it with). Cellulose insulation is available is several different types, from wood fibre bats through to wet-sprayed or dry pumped cellulose from shredded paper. None of the cellulose based products have anything nasty in them, and all are pretty vapour permeable. They also tend to have a fairly high decrement delay factor, which can be useful in trying to better regulate temperatures between warm days and cool nights.
Some of your biggest challenges are going to be trying to improve the energy efficiency to whatever standard may be required, as I'm assuming from the scale of the project that the work is of a nature that's going to need building control approval. Although the energy saving measures for renovations are lower than for new buildings, you can renovate using "natural" materials to a fairly good energy efficiency standard. Doing this can also reduce some of the factors that cause degradation in older buildings, especially timber framed ones where cold bridging and the consequent creation of condensation loci can be a significant reason for timber rot.
Posted 25 March 2016 - 08:25 PM
I will need to contact building control at some stage. The focus of my attention this next week as well as the bay windows will be the two cellars, get some air flowing through them and start the drying out process.
I will take some pictures so you can see what I'm rambling on about.
Posted 26 March 2016 - 10:58 AM
Can we rebuild this to form garaging without applying for PP?. We also have an old barn 24ftx14ft and attached lean to garage 24ftx8ft what restrictions might stop me applying to turn it into accommodation?.
Posted 26 March 2016 - 11:17 AM
As it's connecting the building to another, that could become habitable, then I'm pretty sure that you would need PP. There is a reasonably good guide on the planning portal as to what does and does not need PP and what can be done under PD. I'd start by looking at the planning portal guidance on PD, but I can't link to it now as they have just taken the whole planning portal down for maintenance over Easter! When it comes back on Tuesday, the url will be https://www.planningportal.co.uk/ and you will need to find the section on permitted development. It used to be pretty good, with an interactive visual guide that answered most questions.
Sadly you can rarely now just ask your local planners, as most charge a hefty fee before you can talk to them, whether you actually need pre-planning advice or just want a simple question like yours answered. You could try having a look at your local authority planning website, as some publish pretty good guidance on their application of local and national policy.
Posted 26 March 2016 - 11:28 AM
When I carried out a previous restoration some years ago you could walk into your local planning office no appointment necessary, and pick there brains! free of charge, sadly this is no longer the case.
Posted 26 March 2016 - 12:07 PM