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Homebrew UFH Test Kit?


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#21 Woodgnome

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Posted 17 January 2016 - 08:52 PM

View Postjoe90, on 17 January 2016 - 07:57 PM, said:

What a good idea, I would not have thought of that. Cheers mate.

You can borrow my tester if you ever get permission! :)

#22 Onoff

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Posted 17 January 2016 - 09:45 PM

View PostNickfromwales, on 17 January 2016 - 08:33 PM, said:

I'd really not pressurise to near 9 bar mate, that's WAY over the 6 that's recommended. What's the pipe rated at? It should be written on the side / wall of the pipe. Prob 10-12bar max, and that's a bit too close for comfort.
I'd do as per my earlier post, and use a gradual influx of water to get the pressure up to 3.5 - 5 bar ( like filling a combi up ) and then go no further. A leak at that point will be IMMEDIATELY apparent, trust me. :)
Regards, nick.

Pipe is stamped on the side "max 10bar 40-95degC". So If I gradually fill it up the pressure will increase on the gauge. If I got it to say just 5bar though could it not be a mix of air and water in the pipe?

But the burst pressure of the pipe according to the tech spec in the link in post #17 is ">= 4.0 - 7 MPA" so 40 to 70bar. Can't see why filling the pipe to 8bar then is an issue?

Cheers

#23 jsharris

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Posted 17 January 2016 - 09:59 PM

The fittings are the problem at high pressure, not the pipe. Pipe fittings aren't usually rated to be OK at anywhere near the pipe rating.

#24 Nickfromwales

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Posted 17 January 2016 - 11:45 PM

View Postjsharris, on 17 January 2016 - 09:59 PM, said:

The fittings are the problem at high pressure, not the pipe. Pipe fittings aren't usually rated to be OK at anywhere near the pipe rating.
Yup.
At 8+ bar, everything will start to get stressed. Absolutely pointless massively exceeding the highest running / operational pressure IMO, so just to clarify DONT DO IT.
There......much better B)

View PostOnoff, on 17 January 2016 - 09:45 PM, said:

Pipe is stamped on the side "max 10bar 40-95degC". So If I gradually fill it up the pressure will increase on the gauge. If I got it to say just 5bar though could it not be a mix of air and water in the pipe?
Instead of a cap end at the other end of the loop you could fit a valve and open it to bleed it, like you'd bleed a rad. Then when it's pure water with no spluts your good to go. ;)
Regards, nick.

Edited by Nickfromwales, 17 January 2016 - 11:46 PM.


#25 Onoff

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 07:03 AM

View PostNickfromwales, on 17 January 2016 - 11:45 PM, said:

Instead of a cap end at the other end of the loop you could fit a valve and open it to bleed it, like you'd bleed a rad. Then when it's pure water with no spluts your good to go. ;)
Regards, nick.

Oh.....I WAS planning:

Hose pipe
Jubilee clip
15mm copper
Non return valve
15mm copper
15/15 brass compression
15 to 16mm adapter

Pex-Al-Pex loop

15 to 16mm adapter
15/15 brass compression
15mm copper
15 / 3/4" iron
Pressure gauge

As in the gauge rather than a cap at one end of the loop. Maybe put the gauge on a "T"?

EDIT: Guess I need to add a PRV at the start now?

Edited by Onoff, 18 January 2016 - 07:04 AM.


#26 PeterW

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 08:34 AM

You need a PR set on the main house incomer..!!

Do the whole house then then rest is easy.

I always put an elbow then the upright with a tee on it about 18" up the wall - keeps the gauge out of the gobbo and also means the loops properly fill with water with a valve to let the air out to start with .

Something like

Pipe - elbow - pipe - tee - gauge
!
Valve






#27 Nickfromwales

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 08:37 AM

View PostOnoff, on 18 January 2016 - 07:03 AM, said:



Oh.....I WAS planning:

Hose pipe
Jubilee clip
15mm copper
Non return valve
15mm copper
15/15 brass compression
15 to 16mm adapter

Pex-Al-Pex loop

15 to 16mm adapter
15/15 brass compression
15mm copper
15 / 3/4" iron
Pressure gauge

As in the gauge rather than a cap at one end of the loop. Maybe put the gauge on a "T"?

EDIT: Guess I need to add a PRV at the start now?
You don't need a PRV yet, just raise the pressure bit by bit eg don't open the fill tap fully :) That way you can choose the test pressure to suit yourself. ;)
Regards, Nick.

#28 Onoff

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 01:34 PM

View PostNickfromwales, on 18 January 2016 - 08:37 AM, said:

You don't need a PRV yet, just raise the pressure bit by bit eg don't open the fill tap fully :) That way you can choose the test pressure to suit yourself. ;)
Regards, Nick.

Sorry to appear dense(er) but it's purging the air I don't get with a higher pressure.....

Say the mains pressure is 9bar. I connect it up to my empty circuit the tap is off. Hose in one end and pressure gauge on the other. The circuit is at the moment filled with air which I need to get rid of. Surely, as soon as I open the tap by however much then it's at mains pressure with all the air in front of it. If I then crack the circuit at the gauge end the pipe will fill with water spluttering and spurting until the air is cleared and just water flowing.....but as soon as I cap it off the water in the pipe will still be at 9bar?

At that point I'd need to bleed WATER to bring the pressure down?

Or not..... :lol:

#29 Woodgnome

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 02:27 PM

https://youtu.be/Jxf5V4_Bc0U
From about 5 minutes in.

#30 joe90

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 03:22 PM

View PostWoodgnome, on 17 January 2016 - 08:52 PM, said:



You can borrow my tester if you ever get permission! :)

Thanks mate, if I come down soon, may give you a call and see your site.

#31 Nickfromwales

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 04:10 PM

View PostOnoff, on 18 January 2016 - 01:34 PM, said:



Sorry to appear dense(er) but it's purging the air I don't get with a higher pressure.....

Say the mains pressure is 9bar. I connect it up to my empty circuit the tap is off. Hose in one end and pressure gauge on the other. The circuit is at the moment filled with air which I need to get rid of. Surely, as soon as I open the tap by however much then it's at mains pressure with all the air in front of it. If I then crack the circuit at the gauge end the pipe will fill with water spluttering and spurting until the air is cleared and just water flowing.....but as soon as I cap it off the water in the pipe will still be at 9bar?

At that point I'd need to bleed WATER to bring the pressure down?

Or not..... :lol:
You don't ever let the pressure exceed 5-6 bar. You are the throttle. Pressurise a bit, bleed a bit, pressurise a bit more, bleed a bit more. Continue until splut free.
:)

#32 Onoff

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 05:14 PM

View PostNickfromwales, on 18 January 2016 - 04:10 PM, said:

You don't ever let the pressure exceed 5-6 bar. You are the throttle. Pressurise a bit, bleed a bit, pressurise a bit more, bleed a bit more. Continue until splut free.
:)

Got it.....eventually! I'll put a valve then just before the non return valve so I can "feather" it.

That way I can do it on my tod. Save getting the wife to stop playing Candy Crush or the boy LoL, Minecraft, etc. :lol:

#33 Nickfromwales

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Posted 18 January 2016 - 08:31 PM

Houston......the eagle has landed.
:D

#34 Onoff

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 06:11 PM

Pressure testing, hose pipe through the letter box and along the hall to the bathroom! :lol:

So...... I'll have the Pex-Al-Pex coming in from the left hand side to the 16/15mm adapter. It'll go into a 15mm / 3/4" iron and then the 11 bar gauge (braided hose) one end. The other end will attach to the NRV as a 15mm compression (I've shown just a 15/15mm coupler but it's the same deal)..

I presume the (black) O-ring on the 16/15mm adapter takes the place of the olives in the compression fittings? Tbh there's no way on earth the O-ring will go through the olives without tearing:

[attachment=6145:24526311571_192e9cd18d_z.jpg]

#35 Nickfromwales

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 06:26 PM

Not sure what you have there tbh.
http://www.theunderf...CFQw8GwodsH4LRQ
Did your fitting look like this before you took it apart?
The nipple should be a solid part of the connector, eg no loose insert
:unsure:

#36 Onoff

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 06:50 PM

The serrated section pushes tight into the 16mm Pex-Al-Pex. The Chrome lock nut has like a castellated copper olive that goes over the 16mm pipe. The tapered nipple with the O-ring seems to fit "just right" into any 15mm compression fitting. The taper on the nipple looks to mate well with the chamfer on the inside of the compression fitting where the brass / copper olive would usually sit - all backed up by the O-ring:

[attachment=6149:24500910052_a0c4731462_z.jpg]

[attachment=6150:24609239045_99a2cd9329_z.jpg]

Only one way to find out.....

#37 Nickfromwales

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 07:20 PM

http://m.ebay.co.uk/...2697?nav=SEARCH

#38 Onoff

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 07:34 PM

View PostNickfromwales, on 25 January 2016 - 07:20 PM, said:


:lol: Hmmm.....might do an outside test on this fitting first then!

#39 Nickfromwales

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 07:45 PM

B)
:lol:

#40 Onoff

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 07:40 AM

Going to go for it. Will just wrap the assembly in amalgamating tape. Should give me a bit of containment & precious seconds to shut things off if it does go bang.