| Author |
Message |
Dwpriest New Member Username: Dwpriest
Post Number: 1 Registered: 02-2005
| | Posted on Monday, 21 February, 2005 - 10:20 am: |
|
I was looking to put a chipboard floor down in our loft/roofspace. This is just so that it can provide storage space without me putting a foot through. At the moment the previous owners have a just left shambolic set of timbers and thin board. It’s a late Victorian house, the joists seems to be 1.5 inch by 4 deep with a 14 inch gap between then. The question is: is this space even suitable for storage, and if so what sort of thickness/type of chipboard would be best? Help appreciated. |
Bobg New Member Username: Bobg
Post Number: 34 Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Monday, 21 February, 2005 - 01:36 pm: |
|
No its not suitable.The weight of the chip alone is too much. If you just want to stick up suitcases and xmas decorations and such then by all means put a bit down but I wouldnt lay a floor and use it as a storage room the joists arnt up to it. |
Dwpriest New Member Username: Dwpriest
Post Number: 2 Registered: 02-2005
| | Posted on Friday, 25 February, 2005 - 11:07 am: |
|
Many thanks for that. Glad I asked! Suitcases and stuff was the plan. What might I use to top me putting a foot through the ceiling? |
Bobg New Member Username: Bobg
Post Number: 46 Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Friday, 25 February, 2005 - 12:06 pm: |
|
Its not only putting a foot through the ceiling thats the problem,If youve the old lathe under the joists just standing on the joist can flex it and make the plaster crack. Id throw down some9mm ply or something around the hatch,you should be able to reach out for about a meter so giving about 8m2 of space you can reach without getting in the loft,enough for a load of cases ans such. The joists were designed to carry the ceiling and longtitudinal bracing for the roof not to take strain in bending.They already carry the weight of the ceiling and if over 3m spans wont take much to bend enough to knacker your ceilings. If you really want a useful space up there its not that hard to drop in bigger joists just to carry a floor but thats another matter. |
Dwpriest New Member Username: Dwpriest
Post Number: 3 Registered: 02-2005
| | Posted on Friday, 11 March, 2005 - 08:20 am: |
|
Right - thanks again. Good advice |
Micky New Member Username: Micky
Post Number: 7 Registered: 01-2005
| | Posted on Friday, 11 March, 2005 - 08:38 pm: |
|
Dwpriest I have laid a floor in mine, it took over 73 TG floor boards to complete it. It's laid on the joists, half the loft has 4"x2" set out at 14" apart in one section of the loft, and the other half has smaller joists, only "2x2", again 14" apart, these run in the other direction of the larger ones. The thinner ones are over the bedroom ceiling. Anyway my point is, that by adding this floor it has not effected the ceilings at all, and we have a heck of a lot of gear stored up there. So i don't think you should get any problems adding a floor, just use the right TG loft boarding, less then £4.00 for three, these are made for the job and spread the weight over the whole area properly. |
Bobg New Member Username: Bobg
Post Number: 77 Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, 12 March, 2005 - 06:21 am: |
|
And if the lot falls down your insurance will say what? Ill tell you because I do it for a living.Sod off your getting no money because you put in a floor.The max span for 2x4 as joists(no load)is less than 2m. So unless hes got supporting walls every 2m hes gone beyond its design limits.If its also got a lathe ceiling then hes way beyond. Good luck to you if you have got a full floor in and its ok but the bet is on it not being ok. |
Micky New Member Username: Micky
Post Number: 8 Registered: 01-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, 12 March, 2005 - 08:54 am: |
|
Hi Bobg. Yes mate got the whole floor in without any problems. We covered quite a large area 6 metres long, 4 wide + a bit. The ceilings are lathe, some have been boarded over and we are going to get the others reboarded and Artexed soon. There are the normal walls beneath the loft around the house, so some of the area is supported. We have it loaded with junk/tools/bric-a brac/clothes/furniture etc etc, also there's a new complete boxed kitchen, including the sink up there that i intend to fit ASAP, that weighs a tonne, but it was a bargain at the time so i purchased it ready for when i get the time to fit it. As for insurance, can you tell me when any of them DON'T come up with excuses not to pay out. If there was a fire, they would probably blame the wiring, a flood they would blame the plumbing so it's always a battle. By the way, there is nothing on my policy to say adding a floor in the loft would effect the insurance. |
Bobg New Member Username: Bobg
Post Number: 79 Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, 12 March, 2005 - 12:43 pm: |
|
The get out clauses are many to say the least.There wont be anything in your policy about the flooring but if it falls and the joists are too small then you wouldnt get paid. Many people load them up,my old man had a train set in the loft with 2x4 flooring and he was a good 150kg. Technicaly its not on and advising someone that it would maybe be ok for me as a surveryor would be negligent.Many on here havnt a clue and want some advice without seeing the floor and based on his desciption I gave the best advice. if it was my house I may also board it out and put the heavy stuff over the supporting wall.the fact youve done it shows its possible but if it does crack his ceiling you wont have to replace them.Erring on the side of caution and allowing that it specs wise is not possible Id still go with not doing it. |
Micky New Member Username: Micky
Post Number: 9 Registered: 01-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, 12 March, 2005 - 07:24 pm: |
|
Bobg, i can see your point, any info from a paid surveyor would indeed be expected to be correct, and this goes for any tradesmen that earn a living from building/plumbing/electrical repairs/motor repairs etc etc all would want to carry out the work properly as laid down via the book of words. However, as for the D.I.Y person, and one of the prime reasons for D.I.Y work is to save as much money as possible, hence take as many short cuts as possible but end up with a reasonable finished job. If it goes wrong then there's no one to blame, we start again. However some guidence or advice is always handy from the pro, at least then, when it does go wrong we know why. |
Flynnyman New Member Username: Flynnyman
Post Number: 36 Registered: 01-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, 12 March, 2005 - 09:50 pm: |
|
dont see the point of waiting to see if it goes wrong when you know its wrong when your doing it.fair enough its not collapsed yet but whats the point of doing it twice. |
Micky New Member Username: Micky
Post Number: 10 Registered: 01-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, 13 March, 2005 - 09:27 am: |
|
Flynnyman. The reason for NOT wanting to make a first class proper job, IS i do not want it to be a permanent alteration. Hence i don't want to spend too much on it. All i am after is some temporary storage and some additional space that can be used. In five years time, the whole lot can be removed, so there's no point in doing a proper expensive job. |
Bobg New Member Username: Bobg
Post Number: 84 Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, 13 March, 2005 - 03:14 pm: |
|
Unless the ceiling falls down,then itll be real expensive.Ever seen DIY disasters?Good programme. |
Micky New Member Username: Micky
Post Number: 11 Registered: 01-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, 13 March, 2005 - 05:01 pm: |
|
No worries Bobg. If it last five years i will be happy then i plan to either strip the whole lot back to bare basics for a complete rebuild, or just chuck it on an auction. |
Bobg New Member Username: Bobg
Post Number: 90 Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, 13 March, 2005 - 10:00 pm: |
|
As I said my old man did it and it was ok,myself Id rather not take the risk but the point of here is so others know things can be done that technicaly arnt good then they take the risk. |
Civicwalker New Member Username: Civicwalker
Post Number: 1 Registered: 09-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, 18 September, 2005 - 08:08 pm: |
|
I want to chipboard out a 7ft x 15ft area in my loft after 10 inches of insulation has been newly laid. The problem is that the joists are only 4 x 1.5 inches and 2ft apart. Am I best trying to squeeze the insulation into the 4inch gap or try to somehow raise the clearance. For example, adding 2 x 2 inch strips along each 7ft joist giving a mere 6inch clearance OR running new 4 x 2 joists across the originals for the 15 ft area with the same 2ft gap [but how will I fix them]? |
Civicwalker New Member Username: Civicwalker
Post Number: 3 Registered: 09-2005
| | Posted on Monday, 19 September, 2005 - 06:50 pm: |
|
Sorry I should have started a new post |
Ross
New Member Username: Ross
Post Number: 1 Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, 28 November, 2006 - 04:00 pm: |
|
I have an 18 year old house and need to lay some kind of flooring in the loft to allow storage of old toys, suitcases and all the usual clutter. I was going to buy the packs of 3 chipboard tongue and groove from B&Q but have been advised to ensure my joists are strong enough. not being an expert in this field.....or most diy jobs, i dont know exactly what i am looking for. The loft has already had the area around the hatch boarded when it was built but has area's each side are aprox 12ft x 8.5ft. Any advise offered would be a great help. |
Cwatters
Gold Level Contributor Username: Cwatters
Post Number: 1180 Registered: 12-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, 28 November, 2006 - 08:26 pm: |
|
Measure the joists - width, height, spacing and span. Report back and someone will comment. |
Raff
Bronze Level Contributor Username: Raff
Post Number: 94 Registered: 05-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, 28 November, 2006 - 09:21 pm: |
|
Good advice already given. This site has much to offer. |