| Author |
Message |
philip s
| | Posted on Wednesday, 09 June, 2004 - 02:44 pm: |
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We moved into a house just over a year ago, before we moved in we had some work done on the house during which time an area of dry rot was found in one of the bedrooms. This was treated in the standard way, fungus removed and affected timber/plaster replaced and we were satisfied with the results. Inevitably there was an odour present from the dry rot treatment though this faded. So what's the problem? Well we decorated the room a few months ago, painted the walls with standard emulsion paint from B+Q and put down a laminate flooring and everything was going well until we noticed a smell in the room, it varies in intensity it can get really strong to the point where it is difficult to stay in the room and sometimes is not there at all, it is a "plastic" smell and is not the same smell as the dry rot chemicals, the room is empty. The smell was not present in the room until we decorated. We have had environmental health look at the problem and they believe it is not the dry rot treatment. Before I take up the floor or repaint the walls has anyone got any ideas?? |
mick
| | Posted on Wednesday, 09 June, 2004 - 03:23 pm: |
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the paint.I had the same problem years ago,the smell varied from a mild cheesy smell to someone had dropped a good one after a curry.It turned out to be the paint reacting with the wallpaperpaste.If youve painted over paper it could be the same. |
philip s
| | Posted on Thursday, 10 June, 2004 - 11:51 am: |
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thanks for the message Mick, the walls were skimmed to cover some artex so the paint was the only material on the wall after the mist coat. I think I will do a re-paint though. |
mick
| | Posted on Thursday, 10 June, 2004 - 01:38 pm: |
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Not the same problem I had then.Worth a try.I cant see how repainting would help if its new plaster.Id look somewhere else,Have you got cheap mdf backed laminate?Formaldehyde stinks and is released from mdf but all on the market should be formaldahyde fumes free(its not good for you).If that is it well ventilation of the room is needed for a few weeks and the smell should drop,if it does id bet on the laminate(as well as the fact that its the only thing changed in the room) |
jimmy
| | Posted on Thursday, 10 June, 2004 - 09:22 pm: |
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do you only notice the smell as You enter the room? |
philip s
| | Posted on Monday, 14 June, 2004 - 09:13 am: |
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As you walk in the room you can smell it but also when you are in the room it is still detectable. we have had the window open as well as the door so the room is ventilated. |
PHILL JONES (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
| | Posted on Wednesday, 21 July, 2004 - 04:21 pm: |
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PHILL J. HAVE YOU CHECKED LIGHT FITTINGS AND ELECTRICS FOR OVER HEATIHG (MAY BE TO HIGH WATT BULB )THIS CAN GIVE A SMELL LIKE A CROSS BETWEEN PLASTIC AND URINE (LOOSE WIRE IN A POWER POINT ALSO) |
Slartyblartfast (Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest
| | Posted on Wednesday, 21 July, 2004 - 09:49 pm: |
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These smells are usually caused by trapped builders farts and these can remain in a room for many years. Just look at what fat builders eat washed down with strong tea. The smell has a half life and will never ever go away. Try a plug in Glade!! Good luck Slartyblartfast |
Katrina (Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest
| | Posted on Saturday, 21 August, 2004 - 04:01 pm: |
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I had exactly the same problem when I painted my bathroom...[NOT the builder's farts]...and the only thing I could think of was that the paint had reacted unfavourably with paint that was underneath..[although both seemed like normal bathroom paints]...it took MONTHS for the smell to go..but eventually it did...[without me doing anything] not before everyone was insisting I go and see a therapist because of my imaginary 'smell'...Until I read YOUR post Philip S, I was almost beginning to believe I HAD imagined it... |
M H (Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest
| | Posted on Sunday, 26 September, 2004 - 07:18 am: |
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You said you had a dry rot problem, was it under a floor or in a wall? If so, was the cause of the rot fixed. Was the water penetration solved and/or was more ventilation added? Mold and fungus spores are everywhere always and only need a littel moisture and food (your wood) to get them going. Was the wood treated with an anti-fungal? Which one; copper, zinc or borate based? it is possible if the standard copper or zinc napthanates were used they will not penetrate to where other rot might be. I understand that borate glycol mixes reach further. Just some thoughts. Good luck. ps, if you have any unused or rarely used plumbing fixtures try running some water in them to trap off the sewer gases. |
Matilda
New Member Username: Matilda
Post Number: 14 Registered: 06-2008
| | Posted on Monday, 30 June, 2008 - 07:29 pm: |
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It's old but I have the same problem. Anyone help? http://www.mogio.co.uk/ http://www.mogio.co.uk/resourcecenter
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Peter_a
Gold Level Contributor Username: Peter_a
Post Number: 1174 Registered: 06-2007
| | Posted on Monday, 30 June, 2008 - 11:09 pm: |
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yeh- use 'clearosil' on your 'flaps' !! |
Pasive_home_and_heating
New Member Username: Pasive_home_and_heating
Post Number: 15 Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, 30 October, 2008 - 10:14 pm: |
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glad to see some one has a lol |
Joiner
Gold Level Contributor Username: Joiner
Post Number: 662 Registered: 12-2008
| | Posted on Friday, 08 May, 2009 - 08:54 am: |
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Posted by Cwatters on another forum and worth keeping in mind even if this case does concern an apparently US-based product affected by ship-born delays... http://www.defective-chinese-drywall-lawsuit.com/ |
Karlosgoat
New Member Username: Karlosgoat
Post Number: 2 Registered: 01-2010
| | Posted on Monday, 04 January, 2010 - 02:06 pm: |
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nice one lads. interesting food for thought |